Apokalokero

There’s something to be said about that early morning vibe when you’re off to the Greek Islands. It’s a slow and quiet wake up around Athens as the dark skyline on an empty Kifissias avenue gives way to the first light.

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August 2023

I check the burgundy and orange hues in my window mirrors as we whisk down to Piraeus, leaving the busy life of the city to pastures new. Yes, waking up just before 6am doesn’t sound very tempting to anyone who’s not paid for. But give me an island getaway anytime of the week and I’ll take it.

A few hours later we’ve reached the port of Parikia and are already on our way along the scenic coastline above Parasporos gazing to the pristine waters opposite Antiparos. It’s a beautiful day setting us to an even more beautiful kickoff. A long anticipated summer break upon us and we’re yearning for the beaches and the cold Cycladic waters. 

Down by a secluded cove we find a small taverna with white-paletted tables, old school paper tablecloths and a range of seafood treats on offer. We order some starters and get right to it with a mouthwatering bright orange-coloured sea urchin tangling our palate with its playful texture and its iodine taste. A pour of tsipouro and on we go, nattering about how different life seems to be on the island. Would we ever consider working here for the season, tending to summer travelers and leaving everything behind for traveling the world over wintertime?

The chatter carries on, as is the count of Greek islands as we hop around the Cyclades. Snapshots like dining under the stars at Araklia, mornings with locals at Agora cafe and finally the trek up to St Marina chapel all form strong Aegean footholds on memory. 

The aponeristas kids gang has now gathered by the island’s port as the ship is ready to embark to Piraeus. A few last ones cheering in French are running towards the docks ready to dive once the ship is off, bidding farewell to vacation goers.

It’s now the following day back in Athens. The summer meltemi wind has found itself in the city, cooling off the asphalt tarmac that’s still free from traffic and the noise of everyday urban life. As I’m walking the dog on a breezy early evening, the bright neon sign of the open air cinema lits up. A few tanned faces turn up, a sweet buttery aroma of pop corn fills up the air and the film is ready to roll. You can still catch the sound of the cicadas all around.

Soon enough familiar faces will make their way back to the metropolis. Surely enough there’s still a few moments to catch in this magical setting, in what Greeks call apokalokero.